Discovering... Adeje - An ancient town of two historic halves

Many centuries ago, in the days of the Guanches, the greatest King of them all, Gran Tinerfe, ruled majestic over AdejeToday, his presence is still very visible. At the entrance to this charming village turned town, his statue stands supreme, a reminder that although Adeje may have changed dramatically since its agricultural heyday, it is still steeped in history.
Modern villas and apartment blocks contrast strongly with old colonial-style buildings, ancient churches and the majestic town hall.

And, as you sip your coffee or enjoy tapas or garlic chicken at one of the many pavement restaurants, the tourist hustle and bustle of the seafront at Playa de las Américas seems a world away (if only in truth ten minutes by bus or car).

Adeje is very much a place to be discovered and the best way to do so is by foot.You don’t have to be a serious walker although the footpaths up towards the mountains and the famous Barranco del Infierno (Hell’s Ravine) are a challenge waiting to be conquered.You will see many a hiker with backpack and sturdy boots and there are regular guided walks of the Barranco which last about three hours.

Our favourite morning or afternoon treat is to catch the bus to Adeje and get off at the Post Office on the left-hand side. When we first arrived on this island, we weren’t sure where Adeje was as the area in which we live, Fañabé, is within Costa Adeje. The town itself is just a little further down the motorway on the right-hand side, perched high above the sea and accessed by a meandering road up to it which commands absolutely spectacular views

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Anyway, back to the Post Office. If you walk back down the hill for a few hundred yards, you will find the Gran Tinerfe statue, surrounded by lush green parkland and lots of benches. In fact, hats off to Adeje because it has seats galore on which to rest and admire the vista. From this point, you can see the stunning baranco and mountains which change in colour according to the weather.
In the parkland, odd-shaped wooden sculptures hang from some of the trees under which you can relax, read a book or just listen to the birds singing.

Adeje is very much a thriving town and there are many good shops - shoes, clothes, furniture, interior decor, opticians, hardware, phones, haberdashery, etc as well as banks and estate agents if you enjoy looking at properties. Be aware that most observe the traditional siesta from around 2pm to 5pm.

Prices here are considerably cheaper than along the coast, a trend reflected in the restaurants. The traditional meal for tourists to try is bread and delicious mojo sauce followed by garlic chicken, chips, salad and Canarian potatoes, washed down by wine. A meal for two won’t cost you more than 20 euros and is an experience itself. You can sit outside on the main tree-lined street, if you don’t mind sloping tables because of the gradient, or shelter inside one of the traditional tavernas.

One of my most favourite places in Adeje is the charming Hotel Fonda Central which has eleven bedrooms as well as a picturesque Canarian garden restaurant at the rear. From the outside, it looks just like a toy pink dollshouse and is as quaint inside. A room for two with breakfast included starts at around 60 euros. What a great idea to spend a night here, leaving you two days to explore.

If you’re not too good on your feet, walking around Adeje isn’t the best way to see its charms. The hill which forms the main thoroughfare is steep but there are parking spaces so you can come by car.

We like to walk up the road, turning left at the top, then sharp left again past the cultural centre and then right, giving you access to the second part of Adeje where the road widens out. Here you can find more bars and shops of a different nature as you walk down in the direction of the sea below the cliffs. Adeje is perched high above the ocean so you get a tremendous view of Gomera if the weather conditions permit.

Everywhere you go you see wonderful properties, whether new or old. I particularly like the row of stunning villas which have been built right on the very edge of Adeje with an uninterrupted panorama in front of them.
Many of the older buildings date back centuries, including the little church on the main high street. The Iglesia de Santa Ursula dates from 1586 and was constructed in an unusual rectangular form.

Many of the bars and restaurants in this second part of Adeje are below pavement level which is both unusual and shady on a hot day and there is a wonderful crescent of commercial properties which reminds me of places in England like Bath or Cheltenham.

As you reach the bottom of the hill with the sea in front of you, you can turn left again, past a few more modern restaurants where you can enjoy a drink before literally coming back full circle to the main roundabout and funeral parlour.

The walk itself wouldn’t take you more than 40 minutes but add a lot longer for refreshment stops, shopping, meals and rests! Incidentally, if you are on the older first side of Adeje, you can’t access the second half without going up to the top of the hill and walking round (or going back down to the roundabout and right) because there is a huge piece of wasteland inbetween which you would only cross at your peril.
Discovering Adeje is a lovely day out and makes you appreciate just how many different places and styles there are here on Tenerife which continues to turn up surprise after surprise.